An Acne-Prone Beauty Editor On The Truth Behind Face Masks For Blemishes (2024)

Cystic acne and stubborn spots comes for the best of us. It can manifest in any areas where oil glands are present - be it on your face, back, or even scalp. According to the British Association of Dermatologists, acne diagnosis is on the rise - mainly around young adults and teenagers, but grown-ups are not exempt from the skin condition.

I know it all too well. After experiencing painful, persistent acne since I was 17, I finally managed to get in under control at 30 through medication and prescribed creams. To say that I've tried plenty of face masks, cleansers and SPFs for acne-prone skin is an understatement.

The best face masks for blemish and acne-prone skin

• Editor's choice: Medik8 Natural Clay Mask, £32
• Best speedy treatment: Sarah Chapman Rapid Radiance Cleanse, £43
• Best for very oily skin: Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask, £21
• Best for combination skin: Soho Skin Detox Mask, £60
• Best for irritated skin: Meder Net-Apax Prebiotic Cleansing Mask, £45

How do face masks help with acne-prone skin

Dr Anjali Mahto, author of The Skincare Bible and consultant dermatologist at Self London (she's also helped me sort my own acne), believes introducing a mask into your weekly skincare routine can help manage spots.

What to look for in a mask for acne-prone skin

A clay mask is the obvious choice for oily, acneic skin types as it helps to mattify excess oils, but blemishes can occur in every skin type, be it mature, sensitive or combination so it's important to consider other scientifically-proven skincare actives and avoid ingredients that can trigger spots.

Dr. Amelie Seghers, consultant dermatologist at GetHarley, recommends a mask containing either salicylic acid or an alpha-hydroxy-acid for breakouts. "Examples of alpha-hydroxy-acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid," she explains. These ingredients work by dissolving the 'glue' that holds dead skin cells on the surface of your skin, helping to exfoliate without the need for scrubbing. Salicylic acid works in a slightly different way: it's oil-soluble, so works on dissolving the sebum that becomes trapped inside pores, leading to breakouts.

I know first-hand how tempting it is to tackle your spots will all guns blazing, but do treat your skin with velvet gloves to protect your natural barrier. Your face mask should ideally be cushioned with hydrating ingredients, too, alongside those that prevent sensitivity such as ceramides, centella asiatica and probiotics.

Dr Seghers agrees. if your acne is very inflamed, or you're dealing with irritation or a rosacea flare-up, she recommends focusing instead on keeping the skin calm with a soothing, replenishing formula.

What to look for in a mask for post-acne scarring

Once you've managed to get your blemishes under control, a glow-boosting formula can help to get rid of acne scars. 'When someone has experienced inflammatory acne, and they're left with red marks on the skin, this is what we call post-inflammatory erythema,' says Dr. Seghers. 'A brightening mask, such as something with vitamin C, can be beneficial - but do use your product in moderation.'

Can face masks cure acne?

There is a difference between having blemish-prone skin and full-blown acne. If your spots are deep underneath the skin or if they are inflamed, persistent and painful, seeing a dermatologist is your best course of action, GetHarley offers easier access to skin experts.

If you have a tendency towards oily skin, blemishes and congestion, incorporating a face mask is helpful for skin management. Now that my painful cystic acne is gone, I use them regularly to maintain clarity and soothe any new spots.

How we test

To find the best face mask for acne-prone skin, we take a close look at the ingredients list to ensure it contains a balanced mix of active ingredients and soothing ones. We also consider the mask's texture, and the beauty team takes stock on whether or not it causes breakouts post-use, or if it delivers on its promises.

Ahead, the best face masks to maintain skin clarity

If you don't have 10 minutes to spare, this creamy cleanser doubles as a speedy treatment mask when applied onto dry skin. I use it every night to help with skin maintenance, as it contains fine clay to control excess oils alongside lactic and salicylic acid to help brighten the complexion and soothe breakouts. Cushioned with lightweight oils and glycerin, it's gentle enough for daily use and doesn't leave the skin feel stripped dry. Just leave on while you're brushing your teeth and rinse off.

For extremely shiny complexions, this hard-hitting clay mask will help to re-balance excess sebum. It won't completely eradicate your acne (not many topical, over-the-counter products can) but you may notice that your blemishes are less aggravated and sore after use; all thanks to a cocktail of volcanic ash, bentonite and clay.

Now that a majority of my active acne is under control, I turn to Soho Skin's Detox Mask as a weekly treat to keep manage any recurring blemishes. It doesn't leave the skin feeling dry, but rather, refines texture and pores while taking down redness caused by spots.

This gentle cream formula works as both your cleanser and a treatment mask, depending on how long you leave it on for. I like to remove my make-up before applying, then letting it soak in to quell inflammation and angry redness. A brilliant SOS treatment for days in the midst of hormonal terror.

Dr. Sam Bunting creates some of the most trust-worthy products for tricky skin available without a prescription. This fragrance-free mask is focused on fixing dehydration, which goes hand-in-hand with many acne treatments. if you're using a benzoyl peroxide, retinol or acid-based serum, slotting this into your routine once-weekly will balance out those all-important moisture levels.

This multipurpose clay mask can be used as an all-over deep treatment or an on-the-spot solution for tackling whiteheads efficiently. The Italian clay is combined with sandalwood, which has an astringent (oil-absorbing) effect on skin, while chamomile works to reduce redness.